A fresh and gusty southeasterly wind is sweeping across Cairns Harbour, in the north eastern corner of Australia. Yachts and boats are returning from their day sails and from the Barrier Reef. One small day sailer is setting up her sails and slowly drifting out towards the entry channel - out to sea. It seems odd that a boat that small would be heading out, no mast head lights and no chance of getting anywhere before dark.
With a blue inflatable one-man kayak strapped to its side, the little yacht disappears out of the harbour and away from the coast.
But the little yacht that we see departing the harbour is no day sailer. Nor is it attempting to get anywhere by sunset. The little yacht is WE-TU, a Bristol 22 - just under seven meters long fiberglass yacht designed by Herreschoff and built of fibreglass in 1969, in Rhode Island, USA.
In the helm of WE-TU stands Bill Wolfram, a 53-year-old american sailor and adventurer. Bill has used up his 3-month visa in Australia and is returning home - via Chile.
Bill has been sailing from a young age, but WE-T0 is his first ocean voyager. For US $2500 it was a bargain that Bill could not resist. "I never thought it was too small for ocean crossings" says Bill. "It sails well, very seaworthy and strong". I look at the tiny little winches, the 3mm shrouds and the inner forestay made of 4mm spectra tied in a knot behind the spreaders. 'Strong' is a very relative concept. (I since learned that the spectra stay was actually manufactured to be used for standing rigging, as strong as it needs to be. I never seem to stop learning...)
Bill's home for four years, WE-TU appears a little more than a floating swag. But it is just right for Bill who is proving that world cruising is not a matter of money. Relying on his savings account, Bill has spent little money on the yacht that has carried him across Pacific Ocean to Australia. "The motor (A little Evinrude outboard) is probably the most expensive thing" Bill says, adding up the maintenance cost over the years at up to "a few hundred dollars."
A newly acquired bamboo stick is ready to be made into a pole, while all other gear is proper. "I try to spend my money on the right things." Bill says. "As long as the money lasts, I'm a free guy and boy do I like my freedom!!" Bill's smile is full of mischief. He comes across like a Peter Pan with a hint of Socrates. He is open and sociable, but without too much (if any) concern about what other people think of him. Some of the 'right things' that he has spent his money on include an auto pilot, some new rigging and a USD 15.00 Toshiba lap top computer in full working order. (Amazing what one can find in a charity shop, remember Windows 3.1?)
Bill's yacht looks suspiciously messy, being about to take out to sea. "The first 24 hours are always chaotic. I'll be really tired tomorrow, but when it's time to leave, it's time to leave and everything can be sorted out while at sea." Bill's attitude towards pre-departure ship-shape is perhaps influenced by the Immigration officer who gave him until midnight to leave the country. "She wasn't real nice", says Bill. "I asked if I could make a stop at the Barrier Reef before heading out to open sea but she just pointed out that my visa runs out today and I must leave today".
But let's not worry about small stuff. The next landfall may be three months away.
The little 22-footer is loaded with 250 litres of water and lots of food. Bill is not going to catch fish for food. "I caught a fish once" he says, "and after looking at it I let it back in. Fish, like birds, offer a much greater opportunity for learning than for eating." One of Bill's favourite meals is chickpeas, garlic, olive oil and soy sauce. He has muesli for breakfast. To my surprise he happily accepts a smoke that I rolled, together with a can of beer. But he's not addicted to anything but life and adventure. WE-TU has no alcohol or tobacco on board.
Bill is driven by beauty and optimism. "Problems are temporary and the solution is always just around the corner" he says. And with the exceptionally human heart, Bill is able to see beauty everywhere; flowers, women, butterflies, ocean, sky...sights, sounds and smells.
Bill's attitude towards life is certainly an asset. Even the fact that his yacht is leaking means nothing but a three-monthly dive with some underwater epoxy to patch up the hole in the keel. The 7000 nautical mile voyage from northern Australia to southern Chile didn't cause too much concern either. "If the wind doesn't blow me south, I'll go north". (to Gilbert Islands).
While I watch Bill drifting out the harbour on a windy afternoon, I sit back in my cockpit and feel embarrassed. My shopping list is AUD $20.000 long. Fear is expensive. While I'm insisting on more and more equipment, other people just go and do it.
WE-TU
Built in Rhode Island 1969
A total of 325 were built by 1980.
Displacement 1.3 tonnes
500 kg of led in the keel
Designed by Mr Halsey Herreschoff, one of the most famous yacht designers on the planet.
Bill was born 11 February 1950 (Aquarius) in Ohio, USA.
He's going back home to two motorbikes and a car. No pets, no woman.
(Bill has six brothers and sisters and thirty nephews and nieces)
UPDATE IN FEBRUARY 2004
Bill is safe in Hawaii, after taking the plan B and sailing north via Gilbert Islands. The relentless south easterly winds had their way. I hope to hear more about Bill.
